Project Gutenberg's The South of France--East Half, by Charles Bertram Black This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: The South of France--East Half Author: Charles Bertram Black Release Date: March 9, 2008 [EBook #24787] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF *** Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr) [Transcriber's Note: This file is for readers who cannot use the "real" (unicode, utf-8) version of the text. The differences are primarily cosmetic, involving some fractions and the [oe] ligature common in French words. The printed book had two kinds of headnote: keyword and mileage. "Keyword" headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned on the page, have been placed before the most appropriate paragraph. Each itinerary gives the "miles from" {starting point} and "miles to" {ending point}, with the numbers printed in the left and right corners of each paragraph. For this e-text the numbers are shown in {braces} before the beginning of each paragraph; the place names are given at the beginning of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs describing side excursions do not have mileage information. The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in the text, though not in the introductory section: Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class. Errors and inconsistencies are listed at the end of the text.] [Map: Index and Railway Map of France] SOUTH OF FRANCE EAST HALF GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK. SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with Maps and Plan of BATH. 1s. TOURIST'S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY, ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with 6 Maps and Plan of the Town of SAINT HELIER. Second edition. 1s. CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s. BELGIUM, including ROTTERDAM, FLUSHING, MIDDELBURG, SCHIEDAM and LUXEMBOURG. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. 2s. 6d. NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the MINERAL WATERS OF CONTREXÉVILLE, VITTEL, MARTIGNY, PLOMBIÈRES, LUXEUIL, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, etc. Illustrated with 5 Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s. 6d. TOURAINE, NORMANDY and BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15 Plans. Eighth edition. 5s. The above two contain the NORTH HALF of France; or France from the Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from MARSEILLES to LEGHORN, including LUCCA, PISA and FLORENCE. Illustrated with 8 Maps and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d. FRANCE--SOUTH-EAST HALF--including the whole of the VALLEY OF THE RHÔNE in France, with the adjacent Departments; the VALLEY OF THE UPPER LOIRE, with the adjacent Departments; the RIVIERA; the PASSES between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of TURIN, PIACENZA, MODENA, BOLOGNA, FLORENCE, LEGHORN and PISA. Illustrated with numerous Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s. From "Scotsman," June 2, 1884. "_C. B. Black's Guide-books have a character of their own; and that character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not 'get up' the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer._" The SOUTH OF FRANCE EAST HALF Including the Valleys of THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE The BATHS of VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE The Whole of the RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN With the Inland Towns of TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA and THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY Illustrated with Maps and Plans FOURTH EDITION C. B. BLACK EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1885 _Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_. PREFACE. This Guide-book consists of _Routes_ which follow the course of the main Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than that of the towns on the main lines. Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and either form new routes for himself, or follow those given. The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken either from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement. The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well for Marseilles to Paris. The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from each other. In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been taken in the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All the Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted on payment of a franc. In "Table of Contents" the Routes are classified and explained. For the Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the Continental Railways, see "Preliminary Information." Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air, walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening. Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season; indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. "I would strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go, to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others will demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due regard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best climate, a disease of long standing. "It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they left their own country--the recovery of their health. This appeared to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate. "The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet, exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called 'sight-seeing,' frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was counteracted by the operation of these causes." --_Sir James Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate._ SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF. Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p. 93), Mont-Dore (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283), Bourbon-l'Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pèllice (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian valleys. If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long, a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however, on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp and bracing. From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, p. 27), in which there are many places of great interest, such as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58), Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambérieux (p. 281) and Culoz (p. 282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98), Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardechè (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy. None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport. They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use. The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs., including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; "café au lait," with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a gratuity. Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others 2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See "Railways" in "Preliminary Information." C. B. B. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE OF THE CHANNEL. The six principal ports on the French side of the English Channel connected by railroad with Paris are:-- Dieppe--distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100 m.; Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 25 frs.; 2d cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs. London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):--tidal; daily, except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station. Fare--1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent, M. Marcillet, Rue de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie., 20 Boulevard Saint Denis. From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel, Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, 105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares--1st class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare station of the Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest. From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale, Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40 minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through trains by this line. BOULOGNE--distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.; Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 31 frs. 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c. London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):--tidal route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second class. Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from London to Paris by Boulogne--1st class, 56s.; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to the railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. CALAIS--185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil, 134 m.; Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½ hours. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c. London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283 miles);--departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second class, express. Fares--60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris, 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply at the railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord. CALAIS--204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.; Hazebrouck, 165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 minutes. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d cl. 20 frs. 10 c. DUNKERQUE--190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck, 165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares--1st class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 28 frs. 15 c. England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk (screw):--tidal; three times a week from Fenning's Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours. LE HAVRE--142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.; Beuzeville Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, 111 m.; Rouen, 87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares--1st class, 28 frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains. London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le Havre:--Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P.M. from Waterloo Station, leaving Southampton 11.45 P.M. Sea journey, 80 m.; time, 8 hours. CHERBOURG--231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167 m.; Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, 119 m.; Serquigny Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Time by express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13 hours. FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS. On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England, but the time is more accurately kept. To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of luggage free. _Railway Time-Tables._ Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie., and sold at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the "Livret-Chaix Continental," which, besides the time-tables of the French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is furnished with a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The "Livret-Chaix Continental" is sold at the station bookstalls. Price 2 frs. Next in importance is the "Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," sold at every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway map. The great French lines of the "Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest," of the "Chemins de Fer d'Orleans," of the "Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée," of the "Chemins de Fer du Nord," and of the "Chemins de Fer de l'Est," have each time-tables of their own, sold at all their stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index. For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the "Guide Officiel sur tous les Chemins de Fer de Belgique." Sold at the Belgian railway stations. Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium. For Italy, use "L'Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d'Italia." Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price 1 fr. In Spain use the "Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles," sold at the stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres, of which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg._ or _Llegada_ means "arrival"; _Salida_, "departure." In England consult the "Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway," sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico, price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d. _In the Railway Station._ Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index of the "Livret-Chaix Continental" the place required, to ascertain the fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each on its way. On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are sold. Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, proceed to the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and deliver your ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also "bulletins." After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a luggage receipt, is handed you from the "guichet" of the luggage office, where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. or 2 sous. Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the column headed "Nombre de Colis," and see that the exact number of your articles has been given. The French have a strange way of making the figures 3, 5, and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this office; but remember, when two or more are travelling together, to present the tickets of the whole party at the luggage department, otherwise the luggage will be treated as belonging to one person, and thus it will probably be overweight. Another advantage of having the entire number of the party on the "Billet de Bagage" is that, in case of one or other losing their carriage tickets, this will prove the accident to the stationmaster (chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If, after having purchased a ticket, the train is missed, that ticket, to be available for the next train, must be presented again to the ticket office, to be re-stamped (être visé). The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find it more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case, having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell the porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his luggage ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage again. _On the Railway._ In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway map, and note the junctions; for at many of these--such as Amiens, Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.--the passengers are frequently discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room, otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the direction required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out, "Voyageurs du Côté de Lyon!" and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, we may, with confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the map, we see we must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway map will be found very useful, and ought always to be kept in readiness for reference. _Buffet_ means "refreshment-room"; and _Salle d'Attente_, "waiting-room." There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for ladies. Express trains have third class carriages for long distances. _Railway Omnibuses._ At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished by the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the Private Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of the town for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should the omnibus be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put down at his destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to the hotel or hotels whose name or names it bears. CONTENTS. RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the MOUNTAIN PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY. For the whole of the south-east of France use the time-tables of the "Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée." Sold at all their stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use the "Indicatore Ufficiale," 1 fr. or 1 lira, which gives, besides the time-tables of the railway trains, those also of the steam-trams, which traverse the country in all directions. In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway, 3d. PAGE +PARIS to MENTON+ by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles, Toulon, Hyères, Cannes, Nice and Monaco (see map on fly-leaf) 1 For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide this long journey into two parts--Paris to Marseilles (p. 1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122). +PARIS to MARSEILLES+ 1 The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify from this great central railway are +La Roche to Les Laumes+ by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast church 14 From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p. 16), where Thomas à Becket resided. Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, to visit the source of the Seine. From +Dijon+ (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards. +Chagny to Nevers+ by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities in France. At Creusot (p. 25) are very large ironworks. +Macon to Paray-le-Monial+ by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial (p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had several interviews with J. C. +Lyons+ (p. 29), though a splendid city, ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station for the Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne (p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along the E. side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes (p. 101). See map, p. 27. VALENCE TO GRENOBLE, 62 miles N.E. 44 VALENCE TO ARDÈCHE 45 CREST TO MONTELIMART 46 +Crest to Dieulefit+ by Saou and Bourdeaux 46 Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux is separated from Dieulefit by a high mountain. +Crest to Aspres+, 57 miles E. by Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme (map, p. 27) 47 MONTELIMART TO GRIGNAN, where Madame Sévigné died 49 +La Croisière to Nyons+, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From Nyons another coach goes on to Serres, 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble (map, p. 27). +Sorgues to Carpentras+, 10½ m. east 54 Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53). +Avignon to Nîmes+ by the famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard 64 AVIGNON TO THE FONTAINE OF VAUCLUSE, where Petrarch lived for some time 64 AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE by Apt (map, p. 27) 66 AVIGNON TO MIRAMAS by Cavaillon 66 TARASCON TO ST. REMY AND LES BAUX 67 ARLES TO FONTVIEILLE by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman remains 71 ARLES TO PORT ST. LOUIS at the mouth of the Rhône 72 ARLES TO PORT-BOUC, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat 76 and 72 ARLES TO AIGUES-MORTES by St. Gilles and Lunel 72 LUNEL TO MONTPELLIER 73 +Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour+, which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance 77 +Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence.+ Aix has communication by rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns 78 +LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône+ (map, p. 27) 81 PEYRAUD by rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to St. Etienne 81 +La Voulte to Le Cheilard+, the chief diligence centre in the department of Ardèche (map, p. 46) 83 The road to the source of the Loire (map, p. 85) 83 LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL TO LE BÉAGE (map, p. 85) 84 LE BÉAGE TO LE PUY by Le Monastier (map, p. 46) 85 LE PUY TO LANGOGNE by Pradelles (map, p. 46) 88 LE PUY TO LANGEAC by St. Georges (map, p. 46) 89 DARSAC TO CHAISE-DIEU (map, p. 46) 89 CHAISE-DIEU TO THIERS by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p. 27) 90 LANGEAC TO MONISTROL AND TO SAUGUES. Coach from Monistrol station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) 91 LE POUZIN TO PRIVAS (map, p. 27) 92 +Teil to Alais+, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) 93 This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood. PRADES TO LANGOGNE by Mayres and Pradelles (map, p. 27) 94 PRADES TO MONTPEZAT. From Montpezat the source of the Loire (p. 84) is visited 95 MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY 96 RUOMS TO VALLON and the fine natural bridge called the Pont d'Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98) 96 PONT D'AVIGNON, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for Avignon 99 REMOULINS TO THE PONT-DU-GARD 99 NÎMES TO MILLAU by Vigan (map, p. 27) 105 THE RIVIERA. +The Riviera.+ Hotels, productions, climate 107 +Marseilles.+ Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111 +MARSEILLES to MENTON.+ The French Riviera 122 Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d'Italie (pp. 124 and 129). Toulon to Dardenne from the "Place" to the W. of the Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place d'Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place d'Italie (p. 128). Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau and Pierrefeu (p. 130). Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d'Hyères or d'Or (pp. 124, 131). +The Iles d'Or.+ Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131 +Toulon to Hyères+ 132 +Hyères.+ Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate 133 Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141); to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144). +La Pauline.+ Diligence and train to Hyères 142 +Carnoules.+ Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142 +Le Luc.+ Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure mountains 144 +Les Arcs to Draguignan+ by rail. From Draguignan diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other diligences 145 +Cannes+ to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p. 154), to Cap d'Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156), to Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and Theoule (p. 155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152). +Grasse+ to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165), Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166). +Nice to St. Martin Lantosque+ by coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180 +Nice to Puget-Theniers+ and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (map, p. 165). 182 +Nice to Cuneo+ by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182 +Savona to Turin+ by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. 183 +Beaulieu to Port St. Jean+ and the Lighthouse--a pleasant walk 185 +Monte Carlo to Nice+ by the coast-road 189 +Monaco to La Turbie+ and the Tête de Chien 191 +MENTON to GENOA+--the western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200 BORDIGHERA, up the valley of the Nervia, TO PIGNA 201 SAN REMO TO MONTE BIGNONE 205 +GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN+--the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante 219 +Avenza to Carrara+ by rail--a very easy and interesting excursion 222 PISA TO FLORENCE by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p. 199) 227 PISA TO FLORENCE by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227 LUCCA TO THE BATHS OF LUCCA 230 FLORENCE TO VALLOMBROSA 277 GENOA TO TURIN by Alessandria--a very interesting railway journey 279 END OF THE RIVIERA. +PARIS to TURIN+ 281 +PARIS to MODANE+ 281 AIX-LES-BAINS TO GENEVA by Annecy 286 +Modane to Turin+ 291 BUSSOLENO TO SUSA 291 +Turin to Torre-Pellice+ by Pinerolo 305 TORRE-PELLICE TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col de la Croix 306 PEROSA TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col d'Abriés 307 PEROSA TO CESANNE by the Col de Sestrières 307 SALUZZO TO MONT DAUPHIN by the Col de la Traversette 308 CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE (_see_ BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO) 341 +TURIN to FLORENCE+ by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna 309 ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY TO COURMAYEUR by the Little Saint Bernard 320 +PARIS to MODANE+ by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys about the formidable group of the Ecrin mountains 322 GRENOBLE TO SASSENAGE 327 +Grenoble to Briançon+ by Bourg d'Oisans and the Col de Lautaret. A grand mountain road 328 BOURG D'OISANS TO LA BERARDE, at the base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe 329 BRIANÇON TO MT. PELVOUX by La Bessée and the Val Louise 333, 345 BRIANÇON TO OULX by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne 333 +Grenoble to Corps+ by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette 333 GONCELIN TO ALLEVARD-LES-BAINS 336 +MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE+ by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map, p. 27) 338 ST. AUBAN TO DIGNE 339 DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by La Javie and Seyne (map, p. 304) 339 DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by Draix, Colmars and Allos 339 +VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE+ station, 51 miles N.E. by rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of several of the important passes between France and Italy 340 GAP TO BARCELONNETTE 341 BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO (map, p. 27) 341 GAP TO GRENOBLE by Corps (map, p. 304) 342 MONT-DAUPHIN TO SALUZZO (map, p. 304) 344 PARIS TO LYONS by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) 346 PARIS TO LYONS by Tarare (map, p. 27) 348 LYONS TO CLERMONT-FERRAND by Montbrison (map, p. 27) 349 PARIS TO MARSEILLES by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see map on fly-leaf) 351 MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-L'ARCHAMBAULT by Souvigny and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) 356 MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-LANCY by Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1) 357 ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS TO VICHY 359 CLERMONT-FERRAND TO BRIVE by Laqueuille 376 LAQUEUILLE TO THE BATHS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE 377 MONT-DORE TO ISSOIRE by the Baths of St. Nectaire 385 A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station. MAPS AND PLANS. PAGE +Ardèche+, general map of, including the northern part of the department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire 46 This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc. +Arles+, a town of great interest 68 +Avignon+, Plan of 59 +Bologna+, Plan of 316 +Cannes+, Environs of 155 Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes. +Cannes+, Plan of 149 +Corniche Road+ 185 Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway. This map contains also the +Environs+ of Nice, Monaco, and Menton. +Dijon+, Plan of 20 +Estérel Mountains+, or +Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes+ 146 +Florence+, Plan of 234 The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza Michelangiolo. +Galleria degli Uffizi+ 237 The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini. +Genoa+, Plan of 214 +Hyères+, Environs of 129 As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the environs of both towns are given on the same map. +Italian Riviera+, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn 199 Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the "Rhône and Savoy," and parts on a larger scale on the maps of the "Corniche Road" "Marseilles to Cannes," and the "Durance to the Var and San Remo." +Leghorn+, Plan of 226 +Lyons+, General plan of 30 +Lyons+, Partial plan of 33 +Marseilles+, Plan of 113 +Marseilles to Cannes+ 123 This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side are given the "Iles d'Or," called also the "Islands of Hyères," of which the largest is Porquerolles. +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291 This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d'Albigny to Turin by Modane and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St. Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy. +Mont-Dore+ and +Bourboule+, Map of environs 378 +Nice+, Plan of 171 +Nîmes+, interesting Roman ruins 101 +Paris to Vichy, Macon+, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to the N. 1 +Pisa+, Plan of 224 The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station. +Railway Map+ _Fly-leaf_ This map shows all the railway routes in France and their correspondence with the railways in Belgium, Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Also the railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the Rhône. +Rhône and Savoy+ 107 This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes between France and Savoy. The French Riviera. +Savona to Rapallo+ 211 Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo. +The Durance to the Var and San Remo+ 163 This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy. +The French and Italian Waldensian valleys+, with the mountain-passes between them 304 +The high volcanic peaks+ in the department of Ardèche; among which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire 84 +The Italian Riviera+ or north-west Italy, including the railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200 +The Mouths of the Rhône+ 66 Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is the commencement of the Craponne canal (p. 66). +The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance+, in which are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange, Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest 56 +Thermometer+, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107 +Toulon+, Environs of 129 This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small steamers sailing from the port. +Troyes+, Plan of 12 +Turin+, Plan of 293 +Vichy+, Plan of 359 CARTE DU JOUR. The following List contains the explanation of the technical terms of some of the most useful dishes mentioned in the "Cartes du Jour" of the restaurants. Fancy names cannot be translated. [Transcriber's Note: The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may require added salt.] SOUPS. _Consommé_, beef-tea. _Bouillon_, broth. _Potage_, soup. _Julienne_, vegetable soups. _Purée_, pease-soup. _Purée_, when qualifying a noun, means "mashed," as-- _Purée de pommes_, mashed potatoes. " " _marron_, mashed chestnuts. BEEF. _Boeuf au naturel_, or simply "nature," plain boiled beef. _Naturel_ in cookery means "plain." _Boeuf à la mode_, beef stewed with carrots. Nearly the same as the next. _Boeuf à la jardinière_, beef with vegetables. _Aloyau_, a sirloin of beef. _Aloyau a la jardinière_, sirloin with vegetables. _Aloyau sauté_, sirloin in slices. _Sauté_ in cookery means "sliced." _Rosbif aux pommes_, roast beef with potatoes. In these lists the words _de terre_ are rarely affixed to _pommes_. _Bifteck au naturel_, plain beefsteak. " _aux pommes_, with potatoes. " _aux pommes sautées_, with sliced potatoes. " _aux haricots_, with kidney beans. " _bien cuit_, well done. " _saignant_, under done. _Palais de Boeuf au gratin_, broiled ox palate. _Au gratin_ in cookery means "baked" or "broiled"; when applied to potatoes it means "browned." MUTTON. _Côtelettes de mouton au naturel_, plain mutton chops. " " " _panées_, mutton chops fried with crumbs. " " " _aux pointes d'asperge_, mutton chops with asparagus tops. " " " _à la purée de pommes_, mutton chops with mashed potatoes. _Gigot roti_, a roast leg of mutton. _Pieds de mouton_, sheep's trotters. _Gigot d'agneau_, a leg of lamb. _Blanquette d'agneau_, hashed stewed lamb. _Rognons à la brochette_, broiled kidneys. " _sautés_, sliced kidneys. _Etuvé_, stewed. VEAL. _Côtelette de veau_, veal cutlet. _Tête de veau en vinaigrette_, calf's head with oil and vinegar. _Oreille de veau en marinade_, pickled calf's ear. _Ris de veau_, sweetbread. _Foie de veau_, calf's liver. _Blanquette de veau_, hashed stewed veal. _Fricandeau au jus_, Scotch collops with gravy. _Jus_, gravy. VEGETABLES. _Pommes de terre_, potatoes. _Legumes et fruits primeurs_, early vegetables and fruits. _Asperges à la sauce_, asparagus with sauce. _Chou_, cabbage. _Champignons_, mushrooms. _Epinards_, spinage. _Fêves de marais_, garden beans. _Haricots verts_, green kidney beans. _Oseille_, sorrel. _Petits pois_, green peas. _Jardinière_ means "dressed with vegetables." POULTRY AND GAME. _Poularde_, fowl. _Poulet_, chicken. _Chapon_, capon. _Cuisse de poulet_, leg of a chicken. _Des oeufs à la coque_, boiled eggs. _Dindonneau_, young turkey. _Canard_, duck. _Perdreau_, partridge. _Mauviettes_, field-larks. _Alouettes_, larks. _Grives_, thrushes. _Becasse_, woodcock. _Becassine_, snipe. _Chevreuil_, venison. _Caille_, quail. FISH. _Anguille_, eel. _Eperlans_, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings. _Homard_, lobster. _Huitres_, oysters. _Merlans_, whitings. _Morue_, cod. _Raie_, skate. _Saumon_, salmon. _Sole_, sole. _Turbot_, turbot. _Frit_, fried. _Grillé_, done on the gridiron. DESSERT. _Compote_, applied to fruits, means "stewed." " _de pommes_, stewed apples. " _de pruneaux_, stewed prunes. _Beignets de pommes_, apple fritters. " " " _soufflés_, puffed apple fritters. _Mendiants_, raisins, nuts and almonds. DRINK. _Vin de Bordeaux_, claret. A bottle of soda-water is called a _siphon_. The cheap wines ought always to be drunk with it, or with common water. At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying a little extra. _Frappé_, applied to liquids, means "iced." _Caraffe frappé_, iced water. _Vin frappé_, iced wine. The litre of beer is called a _canette_, and the half-litre a _choppe_. The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a _carafon_, a word often used in the cheap restaurants. [Map: Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg, Geneva &c.] THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA. +Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Menton, 692 miles.+ +PART I.--PARIS TO MARSEILLES.+ BY SENS, DIJON, LYONS, AND AVIGNON, 537 miles. Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For "London to Marseilles," see under that head in the "Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway." Through tickets sold at their London office. miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES { }{537} +PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the H. de l'Univers, and a little farther off the H. Jules César. _Maps._--For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details as far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, map page 26. The fare, third class, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 A.M., and arriving next day at 5.33 A.M. From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 A.M. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 A.M. From Toulon a train starts for Hyères at 9.32 A.M., and arrives at 10.13 A.M. The third-class carriages between Paris and Marseilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going to Hyères, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as every break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train passes the most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night. By the first class the whole journey from Paris to Hyères can be done in 18¼ hours for £4:13:6. The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, which here joins the Seine. +Charenton+, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. +St. Maurice+, pop. 4300, has in the Château d'Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the +Maisons-Alfort+, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some time. [Headnote: VILLENEUVE ST. GEORGE.] 9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, a deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther is +Montgeron+ on the Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor of Henri IV. On the other side of the river is the village of +Crosne+; where on the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English literature. [Headnote: MELUN.] 13¾ m. from Paris is +Brunoy+, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches 104½ ft. high. 28 m. S. from Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12,000. _Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St. Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8 windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514, "Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me siècle." Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre, the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent pears--some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi, where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau. [Headnote: FONTAINEBLEAU.] {37}{500} +FONTAINEBLEAU+ pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station; but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; Aigle Noir; Lion d'Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie. In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13 frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded with good shops--a bookseller's with maps, plans, and photographs--souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good confectioner's shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes' walk. Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held. _Coach Tariff._--The principal cab-stand is at the end of the Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the forest in the shop opposite. A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10 frs. for the day. Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following prices:-- A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for the first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour. A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour 3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c. A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an hour. Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day. +Fontainebleau+ deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres. The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of the rooms on the left side of the "Cour des Adieux," or "du Cheval Blanc," which court forms the _main entrance_. A small fee is expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not obligatory. To see the "appartements reservés" an especial order is requisite, procured by letter addressed to "M. Le Commandant des Chateaux." The "appartements reservés" comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household, but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in the main correct. It is sometimes reversed. The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. Henri IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon it, and Louis XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large sums. [Headnote: ENTRANCE.] The +principal entrance+ is at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL BLANC, the largest of all the courts, measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because here Napoleon I., forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave, on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and his wretchedness. As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the following abridged list should be read before entering. [Headnote: CHAPELLE DE LA TRINITÉ.] The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place entered is the +Chapelle de la Trinité+, built by Francis I. in 1529, and largely decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish ambassador having remarked that "the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty." Louis XI. was married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was pronounced in it; and here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The paintings are by Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and Marie de Médicis and Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. by Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre, are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G. Pilon. [Headnote: APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON.] Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the Antichambre des +Huissiers+ (ushers), painting by Brenet, 1785. Cabinet des +Secretaires+, paintings by Vanloo, Doyen, and Hallé. Pass now through a small passage, painted with flowers by Spraendonck, to the most charming +Salle des Bains+. The walls are of plate glass, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +Abdication Room+, containing the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April 1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. +Cabinet de Travail+ (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. +Bedroom of Napoleon+ I. and III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung with silk velvet from Lyons. Round the wall grisaille paintings of cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from Pio VII. to Napoleon. +Salon de Famille+ or Salle du Conseil; dates from François I. and +Henri IV.+, and made by Louis XV. his study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, one piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. Throne-room. Built by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., to which Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of Louis XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000. [Headnote: APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE.] APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases presented to Napoleon I by the Emp. of Austria. This room was fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who forged, but did not finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). +The Bedroom.+ Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by Riésener. Clock of Louis XVI. +Salon de Musique.+ Ceiling, Minerva and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, from which a door opens into the GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated on the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina, and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. Throughout all this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried, near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. from the chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina's chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she replied with petulance, "that she could not, and that many had been condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this coward." At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the goddess Diana. [Headnote: SALONS DE FRANCOIS I. AND LOUIS XIII. SALLES ST. LOUIS AND DES GARDES.] We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes, 1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not shown (see page 8). The other leads into LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des +Tapisseries+ hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress Eugenie. +Salon de François I.+ Napoleon I. and Charles X. used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of chimney-piece fresco by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable Beauvais tapestry. +Salon de Louis XIII.+ The small Venetian looking-glass, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was born. The paintings on the ceiling and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to Francis I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de +Saint Louis+. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV. by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777. Salle des +Gardes+, principally by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis I., with the allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri II., with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+), with figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust of Henri IV., and at each side statues of Might and Peace by Francarville. A very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood, corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis XV., was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d'Etampes. The frescoes, representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo dell' Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol. GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent hall in the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by François I., and decorated by Henri II. for his favourite Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments, elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri II. and of Diana. The chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page 8). We return now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, 210 ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis. Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. The frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I. From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were inhabited by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV.), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also by Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by Napoleon III. for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and other French masters. +Antechamber.+ Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio's best works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed leather. Furniture covered with Cordova leather. +Salles des Officers.+ Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of Esther. +Salon.+ Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +The Old Bedroom+ (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. +Study+ of Pio VII.--portrait of him by David. Dressing-room--wardrobe of inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV. by Lemoyne, 1751. +New Bedroom+--bedstead of time of Louis XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. +Salon de Reception+--Gobelins tapestry--furniture of time of Louis XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. +Waiting-room+ or Salle d'Attente. Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI. +Antechamber.+ 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood. Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques. GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading to the SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of Charles VIII., adorned with a statue of him in stucco. [Headnote: CHAPELLE DE ST. SATURNIN.] LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES. +Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin+, built by Louis VII. after his return from Palestine, and consecrated by Thomas à Becket in 1169. The painted glass of the windows was manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836, daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius VII. performed mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis I., upon which he built the +Upper Chapel+. It was ornamented with charming frescoes, in the reign of +Henri IV.+, about the year 1608. Napoleon III. commenced the restoration. Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I. Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the +Galerie de Diane+, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently executed. It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p. 6). Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by J. B. Oudry. Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber, saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties. The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble pupils of St. Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see p. 7). The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission. THE COURTS. From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe staircase, leads through to the +Cour de la Fontaine+. In the side facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left the +Porte Dorée+, one of the gates that opens into the +Cour Ovale+. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539. And by this portal the Duchesse d'Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pass the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices. At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d'Armes, connected with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular. [Headnote: DRIVES IN THE FOREST.] Excursions into the forest. Those wishing to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compass and a copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts lead in the other direction. The coachmen are acquainted with all the roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The following are the three principal drives, each requiring 6 hours:-- 1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie--Point de vue du camp de Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle Vue--Barbison par le Bas Bréau--Gorges d'Apremont et Franchard. 2. Vallée du Nid de l'Aigle--Mont Ussy--Caverne d'Augas--Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet--Gorges et Rochers de la Solle--Rocher St. Germain--Bocages des Ecouettes--Fort l'Empereur--Calvaire--Roche Eponge et Point de vue de Nemorosa. 3. Rocher Bouligny--Rocher des Demoiselles--Gorge aux Loups et Mare aux Fées--Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix du Gd. Maitre. The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but especially from the Fort de l'Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, take the first, 3¼ m. by rail from Fontainebleau. After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and trellis-work. [Headnote: MORET. JEAN SANS PEUR.] miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES {42}{495} +MORET+, pop. 2000. _Inn_: Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates Paris and Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is principally of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. 7½ m. farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of the Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system. Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a mile from the town. _Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, near the post office. Those who may require to wait for a train at this junction, should, if time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town and visit the parish church, with its handsome columns gracefully ramifying into the groining of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the right of the high altar is the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone bridge, or rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, which here unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble slab indicates the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On the steep hill overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of Surville. Montereau has important potteries. [Headnote: SENS.] {71}{466} +SENS+ on the Yonne, pop. 12,400. _Inns_: Paris; Écu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and going southwards up the street, we have first the statue of the chemist Thénard, and then the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch erected in honour of the Duchess of Angoulême, when she visited this city in 1828. Behind are spacious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable walks. [Headnote: THOMAS À BECKET.] The +Cathedral of St. Etienne+ was commenced in 972, but nearly rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without beauty, is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by G. Coustou, and statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel, Becket used to officiate. The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the cathedral. It is now occupied by the Soeurs de l'Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are lighted by superb glass; but the best window is the second to the right on entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th century, and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. Vincent de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. Adjoining the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the church, and to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings that existed in Becket's time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church. When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16, and 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14. +Becket+ was assassinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards. Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees from every corner of Christendom. Every 50th year a jubilee was celebrated in his honour. [Headnote: TROYES.] 41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l'Etat is TROYES, pop. 39,000. _Hotels_: At the station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal street, the Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel des Couriers. [Headnote: CATHEDRAL. HENRY V.] Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine, canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling. Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the most important is the +Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul+, situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th. Three hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and the transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the nave, separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory, both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The height of the roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The glass of the windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of choir, are of the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th cent. Before the high altar in this church Henry V. of England was affianced to the Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. of France, on the 20th May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the poor mad Charles VI. should cease to live. Behind the high altar in the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the oldest glass in the church. A stair to the right of the high altar leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the 13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate, St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the _Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS., in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. Paul's Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +Museum+, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, Mignard, etc.; [Headnote: SALLE SIMARD.] and the _Salle Simard_, containing a valuable collection of the +Models made by Simard+ for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is expected. A short distance eastward from the cathedral is the Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the window of the sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the 16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic architecture, the church of +St. Urbain+, built by that Pope towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was that of a cobbler. A short way N. is +St. Remi+, 14th century, with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St. Urbain, by the Rue de l'Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_, built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished in 1670. Beyond is +St. Jean+, 14th century. The high altar was sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel "O Sacrum Convivium," are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, pass up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division is +La Madeleine+, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in 1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from St. Jean is +St. Nicolas+, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead. [Map: Troyes] Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. The glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles give the church the appearance of a statue gallery. South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St. Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west portal, constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by Gentil. Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for two, 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff. [Headnote: TROY WEIGHT.] The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo during the time of the crusades, and first adopted in this city. Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in 1814. [Headnote: VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE.] miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES {79}{458} +VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE+, pop. 5100. _Hotel_: Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau the man "au masque de Fer" spent some days while on his way to the Bastile (p. 158). Villeneuve is joined to its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or 84 m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_: Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but possessing a fine church, of which the greater part of the choir, as well as the S. and N. porches, belong to the 13th cent., and the remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th cents. Overlooking the town, and distinctly seen from the station, is a ruined chapel belonging to the 13th cent. {91}{446} +JOIGNY+, pop. 7000. A good resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, between the station and the bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne, which is the principal promenade. The most important part of the town occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which are situated St. André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; and St. Thibault, 15th cent. {96}{441} +LA ROCHE+, on the Canal de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon and the Yonne. Large refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les Laumes, 79½ m. southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur. (See map on p. 1.) [Headnote: AUXERRE.] LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES. 12½ m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the hill rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, +St. Etienne+, was rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high. The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S. transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery. Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the 13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St. Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in the 17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower, 173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic. Near the Hôtel de l'Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk is a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.) 13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d'Or, on the Serein. The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the well-known white wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdésir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty flavour. Cravant, pop. 1000, _Inn_: Hôtel de l'Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the station, owing its importance to its position at the junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les Laumes, 56 miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.) [Headnote: SERMIZELLES.] 37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles distant), for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a private vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354. [Headnote: VEZELAY. BECKET.] +Vezelay+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is 404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured mullions. Within the doorway is a spacious narthex, of which the triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which adjoined the church. To appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches springing from massive piers, with attached columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period. A triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door opens into what was formerly the "salle capitulaire," built in the 12th cent. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church is St. Martin's, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as parts of the fortifications, still remain. Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he pronounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have included Henri II. himself, had he not been informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under Richard Coeur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired. 1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban. [Headnote: SEMUR.] 9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is +Avallon+, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. _Hotels:_ Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. Lazare, 12th cent., is a beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture. Coach awaits passengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant, pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St. Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from Avallon is the Forêt de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent down the Yonne and Seine in rafts. After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop. 4150. _Hotels:_ Côte d'Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armançon, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent., and repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass; the subjects are portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet high. At each transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain. 12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map page 1.) [Headnote: SAINT FLORENTIN.] miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES {107½}{429½} +SAINT FLORENTIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. de la Gare. In town, H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road separates from the Chablis road. Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. The parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces. The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ. At Pontigny there is a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but pilgrims to the shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the abbey buildings. From Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13 m. S.W., stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the church of Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with narthex and round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand and imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft. wide, and 72 high, and is upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty massive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. A row of small round-headed windows extends round the church below the arches, and another, exactly similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th cent., behind the high altar are the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a village in the neighbourhood. The original shrine, a plain wooden coffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the interior of the building is spoilt by an ugly screen, rendered necessary to shut off the sanctuary from the rest of the church to make it more comfortable for the villagers, whose parish church it has now become. The abbey buildings, of which parts still remain in good condition, were inhabited by Becket. In the treasury is the black strip of a stole he used to wear, sewed on to another stole. Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious deeds connected with him and others, who had retired to this, then an austere Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are hung with engravings representing scenes in the life of St. Edmund. Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and remained till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay to Sens. [Headnote: TONNERRE.] {123}{414} +TONNERRE+, pop. 6000, on the Armançon. _Inns:_ Lion d'Or; Courriers-- both near each other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d'Or, leads past the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the cemetery, and to the church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right above the town. At the foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; but it is in a dirty part of the town, and used by the washerwomen. A straight street to the right of the Lion d'Or leads down to the hospital, built in 1834, the original part of which, built by Marguerite de Bourgogne in 1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her remains repose under a beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308). To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine. [Headnote: TANLAY.] {127½}{409½} +TANLAY+, pop. 1000, on the Armançon. A small village with a handsome castle in an extensive park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci, in 1520, but by far the largest portion by a brother of Admiral Coligny, in 1559. The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The principal court is 79 feet by 36. In a room in the second story of the Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the Protestant party used to meet under the presidency of Admiral Coligny. A fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the gods of Olympus, the persons who took the most prominent part in the political and religious events of that period. Catherine de Médicis is portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the Condé as Mars. Round the room are a series of curiously-constructed recesses, communicating with each other in the walls. The largest of the splendid chimney-pieces is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds are the ruins of the abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent. At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour 45 minutes, among forests, and famous for truffles. [Headnote: ANCY-LE-FRANC.] {136}{401} +ANCY-LE-FRANC+, pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built according to the plans of Primaticcio. {142}{395} +NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES+, pop. 700. Important junction with the Paris and Bâle line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 miles north-east to Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. In the environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of Rochefort, 17th and 18th cents. [Headnote: MONTBARD.] {151}{386} +MONTBARD+, pop. 3000, on the Canal de Bourgogne. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born in this small village on the 7th of September 1707. His château, a plain large house, is entered from the extremity of the main street farthest from the station. The grounds are extensive, and laid out in terraces. On the western front of the terrace is the small square house, with three windows and one door, into which he retired at five in the morning to pursue his studies. In another building he kept his manuscripts. In the grounds of the château, on the walk below the dungeon tower of the castle of the Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small column erected to his memory by his son, who fell a victim to the tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days before the downfall of that monster. Situated on a terrace at the entrance of the grounds is the parish church, containing the tomb of Buffon. A black stone slab over the door bears the following inscription:-- BUFFON A été inhumé dans le Caveau de cette chapelle Le 20 Avril 1788. There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is the abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill. {160}{377} +LES LAUMES.+ _Inn:_ H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount Auxois, 1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from the station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. _Inn:_ H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, B.C. 50, defeated the Gauls under Vercingetorix, whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands just above the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has some curious sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of September. Four miles from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a beautiful park of 84 acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of the abbey of Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable collection of portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. (See page 14.) {165}{372} +DARCEY+, pop. 850, 2 miles from its station, at the foot of steep mountains 1315 ft. high. _Inn:_ Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are curious caves, and a subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus at station for +Flavigny+, 1½ mile distant, pop. 1300, on a hill 1390 ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old walls. Church 13th cent., with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th, 14th, and 15th cents. Convent of the Ursulines, with splendid view. [Headnote: SOURCE OF THE SEINE.] {171¼}{365¾} +VERREY+, pop. 900. _Inns:_ Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the +Source of the Seine+, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the woods, but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the village of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards Bligny-le-Sec, pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the farmhouse Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left and follow the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte d'Or) stone, where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first the farmhouse Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine (1545 feet above the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a little garden enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house beyond. The tiny infant stream issues forth under the protection of a recumbent statue of the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or guide 5 frs. It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please can go back by the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles south, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Mack; Soleil d'Or. With a 14th cent, church. A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. Seine is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant. {179}{358} +BLAIZY-BAS+, situated at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces through the basin of the Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet long, and 1330 feet above the sea. {190}{347} +VELARS+, pop. 1400. After the preceding station of Malain, and before reaching the next station, Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold railway engineering. The viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers of arches and is 492 feet long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. From Velars commences the branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from Nevers. (For Autun, see page 24.) [Map: DIJON The principal street is the Rue Guillaume. To the left is the Castle built by Louis XI., now the Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the Place and Statue of St. Bernard. No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large building at the foot of the Rue Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, containing the Hôtel de Ville, the Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3 is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6 St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre. Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is the Palais de Justice. The church near the station (No. 8) is St. Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty needle spire. Close to it is St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.] [Headnote: DIJON.] {196}{341} +DIJON+, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station. _Hotels:_ La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the station. Near the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the Bourgogne and the Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous for mustard, gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis. Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding hour. Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St. Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce, 82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent road leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. distant. (See page 19.) [Headnote: SALLE DES GARDES. MUSEUMS.] The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which was inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le Temeraire; but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de Brancion, the Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the ground-floor, and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by 323 steps, and commanding a bird's-eye view of the whole town. The rest is modern, and is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the École des Beaux Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum is on the right side of the great court, and is open to the public on Sundays. Other days a fee of 1 fr. is expected. In the +Salle des Gardes+ are the magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the articles which belonged to them in this room are three beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service; and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died 1098. The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two statues of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each, but in reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few choice paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is considered one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and the kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys. Fronting the Palais is the Place d'Armes, with its shops and houses arranged in a kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue des Forges. Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence of the British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the spiral staircase is the "Homme au panier," a statue 4 feet 6 inches in height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring, like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54 of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double arch seen in the Hotel de Ville. [Headnote: NOTRE DAME.] Close to the Rue des Forges is +Notre Dame+, consecrated in 1331, a very beautiful and interesting specimen of Burgundian architecture. At the east end is the house Vogue, in the Renaissance style, and farther east, in the Rue Chaudronnière, the Maison des Cariatides. A short distance from the front of the Hotel de Ville is the Palais de Justice, formerly the palace of the Parliament of Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d'Assises is of massive carved chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same room is by Belle. At the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty little chapel which belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre is St. Etienne, founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the 18th, but now the corn-market. At the end of this same street, R. Vaillan, is St. Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious frescoes. Standing at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue Guillaume, we have, towards the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in 1478, or rather what remains of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and a little to the N.E. by a wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St. Bernard, who was born (1091) at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau beside the curious little church, 2 miles N.W. by the road of that name. [Headnote: ST. BENIGNE. ST. JEAN. BOSSUET.] Towards the right is St. Benigne, easily recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built in 1742, 300 feet high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805. The crypt and the porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the 13th. In the south aisle is the slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski (1388), and adjoining the beautiful mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In the N. aisle, in the baptistery chapel, are deposited the remains of Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a narthex and a beautiful crocketed spire. It is now used as an artillery store. From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean, founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in 1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without merit. Bossuet was baptised in this church, and born in No. 10 of this "Place," 27th September 1627. Among the writings of this eloquent and illustrious prelate the finest is the funeral oration on the death of Henrietta Anne, the daughter of our Charles I., and wife of the Duke of Orleans. Southwards is St. Anne, 1690. [Headnote: ASILE DES ALIÉNÉS.] At the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into the +Asile des Aliénés+, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi in 1379. Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are the kneeling effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied by Sts. Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the beautiful glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next taken to the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter, consisting of a hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one of the prophets, by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the ducal monuments in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the least successful, and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house contains on an average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers, but an admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and Jura are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its charges are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number of pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau d'eau, and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens. Towards the extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old. The southern continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue Chabot Charny, the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards long), to the public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel to the slopes of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d'Or, extending from N.E. to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet. Behind them rises another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and sheltering the lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and Meursault grow the first-class Burgundy wines; while south from Meursault follow the Macon wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten years in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years. [Headnote: GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN.] {203}{334} +GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN+, 1¼ mile from station, pop. 2000. Famous for their first-class growths, of which the best are the red and white Chambertin. Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in the commune of Gevrey, produce also first-class Burgundies. {206¼}{330¾} +VOUGEOT+, on the Vouge, pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. _Inn:_ Groffier. Here there are above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class Burgundies. Among the most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant, Romanée Conti, Richebourg, and La Tache. {209½}{327½} +NUITS+, pop. 4000. _Inn:_ Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The best vineyard here is the St. George, which produces a wine of an exquisite flavour and a delicate and delicious bouquet. The church, St. Symphorien, belongs to the 13th cent., and St. Denis to the 14th. 8 miles from Nuits is the abbey of Citeaux, now used as a house of detention for youthful criminals, who are trained here to be agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by Robert de Molesme in 1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of the Cistercian order, and from it went forth four of its abbots, to assume the keys of St. Peter. The greater part of the buildings was rebuilt in 1798. [Headnote: BEAUNE.] {219}{318} +BEAUNE+, pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Chevreuil; France. On the stream Buzoise. This town is the headquarters of the merchants who deal in Burgundy wines, as Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it are the first-class vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of these the Volnay vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most valuable wine, under the names of Bouche d'Or and Caillerets, and the Pommard under that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The principal church, Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains semicircular and equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian capitals. In the Place Monge, off the street de l'Ile, is a bronze statue to Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in 1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the 15th cent.--a curious and interesting building. The Salle de Conseil upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a painting of the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. Near Beaune is Savigny, with a château built in 1672; in the neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide, the ruins of the abbey of St. Marguerite, and the Roche Percée. [Headnote: MEURSAULT.] {223½}{313½} +MEURSAULT+, pop. 3000, 1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits passengers for the Inn. The most distinguished wines produced here are the Goutte d'Or, a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry white wine of a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny, where the delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown. {228}{309} +CHAGNY+, pop. 4200. _Inn:_ Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers 102 m. W., passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m. W., and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see page 25, and map page 1). From Chagny southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around Chagny produce a first-class quality. Nolay, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards in this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles distant is the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a deep fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. are the ruins of the castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal mines. [Headnote: AUTUN.] 26 m. W. from Chagny is +Autun+, pop. 13,000. _Hotels:_ Poste; Cloche. This modernised little town, the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves the honour of having been built before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent a winter in this city with two Roman legions; and at a later period, when the Emperor Augustus went to Gaul, he made Bibracte his headquarters, and erected so many magnificent public buildings that the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum, modernised into Autun. Napoleon III., in his "History of Cæsar," considers, however, that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount Beauvray, 14 miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements, fragments of pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been discovered. The walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and 8 feet thick, and were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with four large gates, of which two--the Porte d'Arroux, 55 feet high, and the Porte St. André, lately restored--still remain. The Porte d'Arroux and the temple of Janus (a plain square tower) are behind the railway station. But the Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient church, is on the town side of the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The +Cathedral+, which commands the entire city, was completed in 1178. The architecture of the modern portions is Gothic, but the more ancient is Romanesque. The two towers have been restored and adorned with Gothic spires. The interior contains several windows of painted glass. The entrance is by a handsome open portico with sculptured arches and columns. From the Porte St. Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads to the Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great antiquity. In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789 Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun. [Headnote: MONTCHANIN.] 73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18 m. W. from Chagny, is +Montchanin+, pop. 2500. _Inn:_ H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits passengers. The town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly of the houses of the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits, foundries, and large artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town is the Étang Berthaud, the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saône with the Loire, between Chalon and Digoin. [Headnote: LE CREUSOT.] 78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26 m. W. from Chagny, is +Le Creusot+, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in the ironworks. _Hotels:_ Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the principal street, the Rue d'Autun. Their coaches await passengers. Le Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general feature is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks, shops, and cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few priests, policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two hotels, is a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 by the workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all manner of powerful machinery, there is no noise. West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is +Etang+, with an ancient castle. 51½ m. E. from Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the Alène. _Inn:_ H. Delaigue, close to station. Coach 12 m. to St. Honoré-Les-Bains, with alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m. E. from Nevers is Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. south from Clamecy by the rail, skirting the Canal Nivernais. _Inn:_ H. de la Croix, close to station. 23½ m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in the Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais, which commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish church has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the 10th cent., containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle works, and coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes. [Headnote: CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE.] miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES {235}{302} +CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ at the station, Hôtel Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois Faissans. Steamer to Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on an extensive plain on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre, both lined with good quays. The chief structures are--St. Vincent, a Gothic edifice of the latter part of the 13th cent., occupying the site of a church founded in 532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty steeples; and the hospitals of St. Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two stations--one in the town, and another at St. Come, where the express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalon is St. Marcel, where Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but the monastery has disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop. 3200, with first-class vineyards. Rail to {243}{294} +VARENNES.+ South from this station the train passes before the abbey of St. Ambreuil. {254}{283} +TOURNUS+, on the Saône, pop. 6200. _Inn:_ Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An untidy town on the Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the citizens in 1868. Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among the finest paintings of the French school in the Louvre, was born here on August 21, 1725. The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting Gothic monument, of which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and the latest to the 16th cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics. The Hôtel Dieu was founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, and the Hôtel de Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce good wines. [Map: The Rhone & Savoy with the passes from France into Italy.] [Headnote: MACON.] {274}{263} +MACON+, pop. 20,000. At station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with line to Bourg, 41 m. E. _Hotels._--Near the station, H. Étrangers. In t